The Rolex Submariner: A Deep Dive into an Icon
Picture yourself on a small boat off the coast of Jamaica in the early 1950s. Divers strapped on rudimentary gear and lowered themselves into the depths with little more than a sense of adventure. The watch on their wrist needed to do more than just tell time; it had to survive the crushing pressure of the deep and emerge unscathed. Enter the Rolex Submariner: a watch originally conceived as a practical tool for those who dared venture beneath the waves. Over the decades, it evolved into a cultural legend that has graced the wrists of Hollywood icons, sports heroes, and explorers alike.
What follows is the story of how the Submariner began as a diving instrument and ascended to the pinnacle of watchmaking iconography. Along the way, we’ll meet the references and variations that shaped its heritage—and the famous individuals who wore them on land, sea, and screen.
A Dive into History
Rolex’s journey toward making the Submariner actually started decades earlier with two critical inventions: the Oyster case in 1926, which sealed the movement from external elements, and the Perpetual rotor in 1931, which introduced automatic winding. These two breakthroughs gave Rolex the foundation to create a robust dive watch that could handle the rigors of underwater exploration. By 1953, they were ready to unveil the very first Submariner: Reference 6204.
- Ref. 6204 (1953): Water-resistant to 100 meters (impressive for its time), the 6204 featured a straightforward dial layout with “Submariner” printed below the center. Its design was minimalistic, focusing on legibility and practicality. Today, collectors around the globe pay top dollar for a chance to own this small piece of Rolex history.
The following year brought the Ref. 6205, extremely similar to its predecessor but with slight modifications on the dial. Some examples famously omit the word “Submariner” entirely—an oddity that makes them particularly interesting to vintage enthusiasts.
Crown and Glory: The “Big Crown” Era
Before long, Rolex introduced an even more rugged design to bolster the Submariner’s diving credentials. This happened with the Ref. 6538 around 1955. Nicknamed the “Big Crown” due to its oversized 8mm winding crown, the 6538 became an emblem of adventure and toughness.
- Ref. 6538 “Big Crown”: Rated to 200 meters, it boasted a gilt (gold-text) dial that gave the watch a warm, luxurious shine—despite being a hardcore tool watch.
Most memorably, Sean Connery wore the 6538 when he portrayed James Bond in Dr. No (1962). That simple cinematic appearance forever branded the Submariner as “the Bond watch.” Even decades later, the image of Connery’s tuxedo-clad Bond checking his Submariner remains etched in pop culture.
Alongside the 6538, Rolex produced other important references, such as the Ref. 6536/6536-1 with smaller crowns, and the Ref. 5508 (often called the last “Small Crown” Submariner). A particularly rare gem, Ref. 5510, retained the larger crown but was produced in very limited quantities, making it a unicorn among vintage Rolex connoisseurs.
The Shift Toward Modern: Crown Guards and New Depths
By the late 1950s and early 1960s, it was clear that professional divers—and watch wearers in general—wanted a more secure crown. The solution arrived in the form of crown guards, small protective “shoulders” on either side of the winding crown.
- Ref. 5512 (late 1950s – 1970s): This model introduced crown guards and was chronometer-certified (noticeable by the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” dial text in some versions). The 5512 ushered in a new era for the Submariner, one defined by both robustness and modern aesthetics.
A non-chronometer cousin to the 5512, Ref. 5513 (1962 – 1989) shared a nearly identical look but typically had simpler dial text. Steve McQueen is better known for wearing the Hanhart Chronograph he was usually photographed with a 5513 on his wrist—an image that only reinforced the Submariner’s status as a cool, rugged timepiece.
Adding a Date (and a Splash of Color)
If the 1950s and ’60s were all about pushing the Sub’s diving capabilities, the late 1960s and ’70s saw Rolex add a major feature: a date complication.
- Ref. 1680 (late 1960s – late 1970s): The very first Submariner to include a date window, topped with Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens. Early versions boasted red “Submariner” text, spawning the nickname “Red Sub.” Over time, that red text changed to white, effectively ending a brief but beloved era.
- Robert Redford was famously known to wear a “Red Sub,” becoming another Hollywood star to adopt the Submariner as part of his personal style.
Further down the line, Ref. 16800 and 168000 enhanced the Submariner with a sapphire crystal, quickset date feature, and an improved depth rating of 300 meters. In fact, Rolex upgraded the steel for the 168000 to 904L stainless steel, which offered even better corrosion resistance.
Bridging Vintage and Contemporary: The 1980s to Early 2000s
The Submariner’s evolution in the 1980s and ’90s blended vintage charm with modern technology. References like Ref. 14060 (and its variant 14060M) carried on the no-date tradition, appealing to purists who loved the clean symmetry of a date-free dial. Meanwhile, the date model line continued with Ref. 16610, which would become one of the longest-produced and most beloved Submariners ever.
- Ref. 16610LV “Kermit” (2003): Released to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, this special edition featured a green aluminum bezel and a “maxi” dial with larger hour markers. Nicknamed the “Kermit” (and sometimes “Anniversary Sub”), it introduced the world to the idea of a green Submariner—though it wouldn’t be the last.
By this point, the Submariner had become far more than a diver’s instrument—it was a status symbol and a piece of pop-culture history. Celebrities like Sylvester Stallone, Brad Pitt, and David Beckham were seen rocking modern Submariners in magazines, red carpets, and everyday life.
The Ceramic Revolution
In 2010, Rolex took the Submariner even further into the 21st century with the introduction of Cerachrom, a proprietary ceramic material for the bezel that’s highly scratch-resistant and maintains its color over time.
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Ref. 116610LN (black dial/black bezel) and Ref. 116610LV “Hulk” both showcased the “Super Case”—slightly beefier lugs and crown guards for a bolder wrist presence.
- The “Hulk” moniker specifically refers to the fully green version (dial and bezel). It quickly garnered a cult following as one of the most stand-out Submariners Rolex had ever produced.
During this era, the Submariner still featured the venerable Caliber 3135 (for date models) and Caliber 3130 (for no-date). While these movements were well-loved, Rolex had even bigger plans for future upgrades.
The 41mm Generation and Modern Mastery
In 2020, Rolex refined the Submariner once more, slightly enlarging the case to about 41mm (although the visual shift is subtle). The real news lay under the hood: a next-generation movement.
- Ref. 124060 (no-date) introduced the new Caliber 3230, while the date versions—Ref. 126610LN (black dial/black bezel) and Ref. 126610LV (green bezel/black dial)—used Caliber 3235, boasting a 70-hour power reserve.
- Collectors quickly dubbed the 126610LV the “Cermit” or “Starbucks,” thanks to its green bezel paired with a black dial—a nod to the earlier “Kermit” but with a modern ceramic twist.
Rolex also made the lugs and bracelet more tapered and refined, making the watch sit more comfortably on the wrist despite the nominal increase in case size.
Famous Wrists and Timeless Appeal
It’s one thing to note who wore the Submariner on a red carpet, but something else entirely to appreciate how the watch has straddled two seemingly opposite worlds: the glamorous stage of Hollywood, and the punishing depths of the ocean. Whether on the wrist of Tom Hardy sporting a modern ceramic Submariner or on Sean Connery as James Bond wearing the vintage Ref. 6538, the Submariner’s ultimate trick is that it fits both scenes perfectly.
- Sean Connery (Ref. 6538 “Big Crown”) in Dr. No.
- Steve McQueen (Ref. 5513) during off-screen adventures.
- Robert Redford (Ref. 1680 “Red Sub”) in interviews and films.
- Tom Hardy, Sylvester Stallone, Brad Pitt, David Beckham—the Submariner’s star-studded roster only continues to grow.
Collectors, Values, and Legacy
Why does the Submariner remain so revered? Part of it is prestige—Rolex’s brand power is arguably unmatched. Another factor is the Submariner’s consistent design language. Since 1953, it’s remained true to its dive-watch roots: rotating bezel, robust case, water-resistance (today at 300 meters), and a legible dial. Even as materials and movements evolved, the essence of the Submariner remained constant.
Vintage Treasures
Early Submariners—Refs. 6204, 6538, or the “Small Crown” 5508—can fetch astronomical sums at auctions. Collectors pore over minute differences such as dial text, whether it’s “meters first” or “feet first,” the presence of the word “Submariner,” or a “gilt” dial’s patina.
Modern Rarity
Contemporary Submariners have equally long waitlists at authorized dealers, particularly for color variants like the “Hulk” or the new “Starbucks.” Even though they’re in current production, they often command high premiums on the secondary market.
Investment & Beyond
While some enthusiasts buy the Submariner hoping it will appreciate in value, many argue it’s simply a watch to wear and enjoy. After all, this is a timepiece originally built to endure the toughest underwater environments. It’s meant to get wet, take a knock or two, and keep time reliably—yet it’s equally at home under a shirt cuff at a formal event.
Final Thoughts
From that small boat off Jamaica’s shores in the 1950s to modern-day waiting lists stretching around the globe, the Rolex Submariner has charted an extraordinary journey. It started as a necessity for divers and became a universal symbol of style, reliability, and achievement. Celebrities, adventurers, and collectors all found something to love about it—be it its robust mechanics, timeless look, or storied legacy.
Whichever reference you choose—be it a vintage “Big Crown,” a coveted “Red Sub,” or the latest “Starbucks”—you’re not just buying a watch; you’re buying a piece of horological history that has bridged generations. For more than half a century, the Submariner has proven it can dive deeper, last longer, and look better with age than almost anything else on the market. And that might just be its greatest secret: its ability to adapt, endure, and remain undeniably cool, no matter the decade or depth.
Suggested Resources & Further Reading
- Rolex Official Website – Rolex.com
- Dowling, J., & Hess, J. (2006). The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches. Schiffer Publishing.
- Papaleo, Pucci (2016). The Book of Rolex.
- Phillips Auction – phillips.com (vintage Rolex sale results and insights)
- Hodinkee – hodinkee.com (in-depth watch articles)
- Monochrome Watches – monochrome-watches.com
- Analog Shift Blog – analogshift.com/blogs/journal
- Revolution Watch – revolutionwatch.com
From pioneering dive watch to cultural phenomenon, the Rolex Submariner has proven it’s more than just a fashion statement—it’s an enduring legend, calibrated to withstand the ultimate pressure test: time itself.
